
Addis Ababa is a city of great contrasts - this is part of a shack land that is just behind the Hilton Hotel and less than a kilometre from the Prime Minister's Palace.
ADDIS ABABA – Journalism teaches us to abandon preconceptions. No matter how much you may know something, care to dig and you’ll find another side, an option never considered. Every story has many sides. As much as we love to pigeonhole and categorise, reality is different. Life is complex.
Take my current assignment, covering the World Economic Forum’s annual Africa Summit in Addis Ababa. It’s the first time the event has come this far north, only recently having alternated between Cape Town and another African city. A visit to Dar-Es-Salam two years back left no desire to return. So why come here, an apparently down-market version of that depressing Tanzanian city?
Because, well, of the complexity of this ancient but poor country. I love history so a magnet was seeing one of the four great empires of third century (Rome, Persia and China were contemporaries). But also my research showed something really interesting is happening here. Ethiopia is Africa’s experiment in the Chinese Way. Most obviously in the desire for political control.
Nominally a democracy, recent Ethiopian general elections have been surrounded in controversy. The Prime Minister Meles Zenawi has occupied the seat of power since 1995 and disapproves of criticism. Also like the Chinese, Ethiopia’s media is tightly controlled, with its single State-owned television channel a reminder of the SABC of the 1970s. Today’s newspaper headlines complain of a proposed law that will enable printers to censor publications before actually printing them. And, I was told by a local that after the Arab Spring, state-owned monopoly phone Ethio Telecom quickly shelved ambitious plans to roll out broadband.
The approach was brought home in a more practical manner during my walk around Addis this afternoon. The young man who elected himself to be my guide warned against taking pics of the Prime Minister’s Palace which occupies acres of prime real estate on the hill above the Hilton Hotel. With dozens of very visible army guards spotted around the perimeter, there was no sense in taking any chances. Indeed, it reminded me of an incident in Maputo a decade 10 back when innocently taking a photo of the Presidential Palace (or rather the wall around it) got me into hot water with some zealous guards with big guns.
Economically, though, things are promising. Although off a low base, Ethiopia’s growth rate in the past three years was 10%; 8% and 7.5%. This has been built on infrastructure investment and a Government that has unashamedly marketed the nation of 82m to multinationals as a low-wage destination.
In Davos this year Zenawi said Ethiopia is actively courting 5m jobs earmarked to leave China because wages there are becoming uncompetitive after years 15% annual growth. Ethiopia’s improved prospects follows heavy foreign investment into wage sensitive sectors such as textiles, leather goods, organised agriculture and manufacturing. Having learnt from the Chinese example of the 1980s and 1990s, Ethiopia could promote its low wage advantage for decades. GDP per capita at $1 100 a year, is among the lowest in the world putting Ethiopia 209th on the list of 226 countries. With that background, it’s not surprising that dogma around nebulous concepts like “decent work” doesn’t enter the debate here. SA, by comparison, occupies 105th place at $11 000 a year.

It pays to be curious. Here's a gem I visited today - the church housing the Mausoleum of Emperor Melenik II. More pics on my facebook page at http://on.fb.me/xzM7Yl
Sitting in on a seminar discussing improving Ethiopia’s competitiveness opened my eyes to some of the challenges facing this historic nation, Africa’s oldest sovereign State and the home, apparently, of the biblical Arc of the Covenant. One of the panellists said there is no concept of competitiveness within Government circles. He was passed from the Finance Ministry to Trade & Industry and then to the Investment Agency without being able to find anyone with any concept of competitiveness. Another complained about red tape and high trading costs were stifling business – using World Bank numbers he said it cost $2 993 in handling charges and customs for a 20 foot container to enter Ethiopia compared with $1 400 in nearby Tanzania and just $545 in China.
Broadly, concerns revolved around mistrust between Government and the private sector; access to finance; and shortage of skills. From Zenawi’s perspective, part-funding this week’s business-friendly WEF meeting in Addis will certainly help in starting to address trust. Trickier will be opening up financial taps as, by law, there’s no foreign ownership of banks, insurers and micro-lenders. Education, too, is perceived to be below par and not helped by a reluctance to accelerate Internet access for perceived political reasons.
It’s complex. Still, being here and seeing the smiling faces and shining eyes gives one the feeling Ethiopia is an opportunity waiting to happen. Like much of the continent, it is hugely rich in potential but seemingly let down by well-meant but misguided political policies. For now, Ethiopia is clearly following a Chinese model. But as good news stories like Ghana, Kenya, Uganda, Rwanda and, increasingly Nigeria permeate, Ethiopia and others may turn to their own continent for inspiration. Doing so will surely accelerate an already entrenched trend of attracting smart money away from developed nation homes.








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